Governor's Tavern

Governor's Tavern took over this corner of South 7th Street from the longtime Iron Horse pub, keeping the exposed brick and the well-worn wooden bar while raising what comes out of the kitchen.

Chef Steve Rawlings builds the burger from grass-fed, pasture-raised beef out of Kinderhook Farm, topped with onion strings that taste like actual onions, and serves it with an au jus for dipping that reads like a mouthful of French onion soup. Chicken sandwiches come Nashville hot or buffalo-style, and the kitchen doesn't stop at the expected: wonton nachos and Old Bay fries show up on a menu that could have coasted on burgers alone.

About sixteen ciders and local beers rotate through the taps, and that's where this place puts its attention; cocktails are on the menu, but nobody's ordering them for the craft list.