Silvia

Doris Choi and her sister opened Silvia in 2017 with their husbands, building the kind of kitchen they wanted to eat at themselves: open to the dining room, with a wood-fired grill at its center, stocked with an organic, GMO-free vegetable pantry, and driven by whatever Hudson Valley farms have that week rather than a fixed menu. The care shows in small things like the wood-fired pita with whipped butter that lands on the table before you've settled, and in Choi's 2024 James Beard Award semifinal.

Look for wood-fired trout, chicken schnitzel, a mushroom pasta that changes with what's in the ground, and seared scallops when they're right. The wine list runs toward small producers making natural wine with minimal intervention. Ask your server what's open that night instead of defaulting to a bottle you recognize.

Sit at the bar to watch the grill work, or take the heated deck when the evening's mild. It looks out toward Mill Hill Road and the edge of town, and it's the better seat from spring through fall. Reserve ahead; weeknight tables close out too, not just the weekend.